It abounds with names

The Menin Gate Memorial to the Missing (Public Domain)

In August 1928, Charles Hunt, who had served with both 6th and 5th Battalions of the Durham Light Infantry (the former whilst only 17), revisited the battlefields of France and Belgium. Known as the Great Pilgrimage, the British Legion organised for 11,000 veterans, and the mothers and wives of those that didn’t return, to make the trip which included the Somme and Ypres, and the Menin Gate memorial, which had been finished the previous year. Ninety years on , the pilgrimage was recreated by the Royal British Legion earlier this year.

In his account (Accession 8873), written for the Whickham and Swalwell Branch of the British Legion, Charles writes that he was one of 550 leaving from Newcastle Station. They made their way to Dover, then sailed for Calais, then ‘at last the French trains, but greatly improved. No horseboxes this time’.

The first port of call was Arras, which would be their base for the next few days, arriving late in the evening. ‘The last time I saw Arras was when I was laid on a stretcher in Station Square and ‘cursed’ the orderlies because Jerry was shelling and the Blighty I was looking forward to seeing in a few hours seemed to be dissolving itself into a wooden cross’. Despite the hour, they were welcomed by the Mayor of Arras and a rendition of the Marseillaise, and other songs.

British and French Soldiers outside an Estaminet, Brasine, October 1914 (Q53337 © IWM Non Commercial License)

‘We went back to the old places. I honestly believe that many of the lads felt that they were back to 1917, and just back for a rest. The estaminets were open all night… The mothers of our dear chums were out again too. They wanted to participate in any and everything that their loved ones had ever done, and though I have no doubt but that many hearts were breaking yet their heads were held high and they smiled proudly’.

Many of them were up early to visit the cemeteries around Arras before returning for breakfast and to catch the train to Vimy. Here, the pilgrims received a box with ham, bread, cheese, and a bottle of beer. The veterans set to eating theirs as soon as the mayor’s welcome was over, ‘the womenfolk were amazed but I guess they wished they’d ate theirs before they got to the top of [Vimy] Ridge. Of course the knife and fork, and bottle opener, went into our pockets. More souvenirs. Habits die hard and it came as a matter of course ‘scrounging’ the implements’.

After climbing the ridge and looking around the area, they moved onto the Canadian National War Memorial (Vimy Ridge was a significant battle for the Canadian Army). Nearby, they also saw France’s tribute to the Moroccan troops.

Memorial to the First Canadian Division, at Vimy Ridge (H06959 Australian War Memorial Public Domain)

After visiting several more cemeteries, and after supper, Charles made a special visit to Aubigny, where the cemetery had also been extended ‘…here again as in all the cemeteries I had visited, I found everything beautiful. Any of you who have loved ones buried in any of these parts need not worry as to their graves’.

The next day’s excursion included Bazentin-le-Petit and Martinpuich, and the South African War Memorial and Thiepval. ‘One couldn’t resist a peep into Delville Wood. Here I found the clearing up is still going on and I was informed that even today bodies are being found’.

The following morning, at 6:30am, the group left for Ypres, ‘…for the ceremony we were all yearning for yet dreading… round the turn and at last Suicide Corner, the Menin Road. The road we came back many a time weary and fed up. And a few hundred yards away, proudly towering above the noble pile stands the British lion, guarding the gate as the men of Britain guarded it of you… ‘To those men of the British Armies who fought here and to their comrades who have no known grave’. And one thinks of those men. Do they see us? What do they think? Those 33000 whose names are carved on the Menin Gate’.

At the memorial, a service was held with an address by the Archbishop of York, and attended by Lady Haig, and by HRH Prince of Wales, who laid the British Legion’s wreath. This was followed by a march past, lasting an hour and a half. The march was led by 25 Victoria Cross holders, and followed by the women, many wearing their loved ones’ medals, and then the men. ‘The Menin Gate is beyond description. It abounds with names in different panels. Every place was almost covered in wreaths but I reverently placed yours in the one empty space below the tablet which records the names of the officers and men on the Durham Light Infantry who are missing’.

The next excursion took in Tyne Cot cemetery, and the sites of fighting around Sanctuary Wood, Zonnebeke, Kemmel, St Eloi, La Clytte, Hooge and more. Then ‘silently, we waved goodbye to Ypres. Look well after our dead, you people of Belgium’.

The group returned to Arras before setting off for home, via brief visits to Etaples and Boulogne, where they sailed from. There were crowds to meet them at Dover, but also the customs officers, ‘they shared my box of cigars out, very kind of them’. The return rail journey to the north east was made over night, and the pilgrimage arrived in Newcastle at 10am.

‘I have very little to add… the main item of interest to many of you, I have no doubt, is the war graves. To every man, woman, or child in this county, some grave is dear… the care of the last resting places of our soldier dead is a gladly borne responsibility. Charles goes on to describe the formation of the Imperial War Graves Commission (as it was then), and the work they are carrying out. ‘All graves are equal… the beauty of these places cannot be surpassed, nor could I possibly describe them to you’.

‘And let us not forget, whilst paying homage to those who sleep in the Western Front, that a great multitude of our men, who died for the same cause, lie in every country of the world, and under all its seas’.